ATLEIN’s Spring Summer 2025 collection pays tribute to the cultural shifts of the 1980s and 90s radical lesbian movements, blending historical influence with contemporary fashion at the iconic Palais de Tokyo.
The world of haute couture took a bold turn with the unveiling of ATLEIN’s Spring Summer 2025 collection, a tribute to the profound cultural shifts of the 1980s and 90s radical lesbian movements. Presented at the iconic Palais de Tokyo in Paris, designer Antonin Tron brought forward an imaginative and rebellious collection, reinterpreting the vibrant and defiant spirit of punk lesbians in Thatcher-era London.
Drawing inspiration from Siân A. Williams and Harri Shanahan’s documentary “Rebel Dykes” and the influential imagery found in Del LaGrace Volcano’s book “Love Bites,” Tron conjured an assembly that was fiercely nostalgic yet undeniably contemporary. This fusion of historical radicalism with fashion aesthetics created a striking narrative, blurring the lines between politics, sexuality, and punk culture.
The collection featured elements that hearkened back to the self-affirmation and queer sensibilities of the era. Tron adeptly reimagined punk and post-punk visual cues, morphing them into wearable art rather than mere homages. The influence of fetishistic fashion was subtly interwoven into the pieces, adding an underlying tension that spoke to themes of empowerment through style.
A signature aspect of the collection was Tron’s masterful use of draping, seamlessly integrating it with sturdy suiting and military-inspired outerwear. This juxtaposition of delicate draping with robust tailoring crafted a sophisticated and multifaceted vision of femininity. Daywear comprised of Japanese cotton and light tailoring wool stood in contrast to evening ensembles adorned with hand-placed Swarovski crystals on classic viscose jersey, underscoring ATLEIN’s dedication to intricate detailing and superior craftsmanship.
Pushing the boundaries of fabric innovation, Tron incorporated vegan leather and specially coated jerseys that mimicked nappa and suede textures. This approach not only added to the collection’s thematic focus on self-definition but also introduced a sustainable edge, proving that fashion innovation can marry both substance and form. Tron’s careful material selection—from everyday wear to richly textured evening fabrics—anchored the collection in sustainable practices and artistic exploration.
Familiar techniques of fabric manipulation, a hallmark of Tron’s design ethos, were prominently featured. Fabrics were meticulously pulled, draped, and molded to follow the natural contours of the body, creating garments with a sensual fluidity. Ruches and knots added a tactile element, inviting onlookers to appreciate the intricacies of the craftsmanship. The muted colour palette—encompassing greys, browns, and off-whites—embodied a moody, introspective energy that resonated with the collection’s inspirations.
The Spring Summer 2025 collection presented by ATLEIN stands as a potent homage to a crucial era in queer history, translated for contemporary audiences with a blend of exceptional craftsmanship, conceptual sophistication, and wearable artistry. Tron’s ability to infuse historical references with modern appeal is what renders this collection particularly compelling, highlighting the power of fashion not merely as attire but as a medium for storytelling and celebrating historical resilience.
Source: Noah Wire Services