A passionate figure in London’s creative scene, Leigh Bowery’s eccentricity and artistic transformations are to be celebrated in a new exhibition at Tate Modern, examining his impact on contemporary culture.
In October 1980, Leigh Bowery, a 19-year-old from the small Australian town of Sunshine, Melbourne, arrived in London with aspirations of making his mark on the world of art, fashion, and literature. Armed with a single suitcase and a portable sewing machine, Bowery sought to reinvent himself. Settling into a rented bedsit, he experienced his first Christmas away from home feeling despondent, leading him to pen a list of New Year’s resolutions. Among his goals were to lose weight, further his knowledge, gain recognition in the creative industries, and wear makeup daily.
Despite his ambition, Bowery struggled with his first resolution and ultimately succumbed to binge eating after unsuccessful diet attempts. However, he committed himself to the second and fourth resolutions with fervour. The third resolution—establishing himself within the realm of art, fashion, or literature—became a driving force behind his pursuit of fame. Throughout the 1980s and early ’90s, Bowery became a renowned performative figure, actively posing, performing, and modelling while collaborating with various artists and musicians.
Bowery’s most significant undertaking was his transformation into a living work of art. His aesthetic was characterised by a relentless series of elaborate costumes that included bold polka dots on his face, colourful paint splatters on his head, and intricate foam outfits that exaggerated his physique. His collaborator, corset maker Mr Pearl, articulated Bowery’s unique vision, aptly stating, “He created a masterpiece – himself. It allowed him to cover up all his cracks and bruises,” as Bowery sought not just fame but a profound self-expression.
Though Bowery aimed for mainstream stardom, his eccentric presence often alienated audiences. His extravagant persona found its true stage within London’s vibrant nightclub scene, where he attracted fellow outliers, becoming a pivotal figure in the underground culture. “Before he called himself an artist, he already was one,” his friend and filmmaker John Maybury commented, emphasising Bowery’s innate drive to create and reinvent himself.
Three decades after his death in 1994, Leigh Bowery remains influential, with his impact evident in contemporary performances and styles, including those seen in Ru Paul’s Drag Race and various modern pop stars. His legacy is set to be celebrated at the Tate Modern in a forthcoming exhibition entitled “Leigh Bowery!” This exhibition aims to honour his diverse contributions and impact through themed spaces that explore the various roles he embodied in life: the home, the club, the stage, and the gallery. The curator of the exhibit, Fiontán Moran, remarked that including Bowery’s work in a prominent art institution like Tate Modern signifies a reappraisal of his status as a serious artist. The exhibition will encapsulate his life as an ongoing performance, challenging conventional views about art, body, and identity.
Bowery’s physical appearance and persona often stimulated surprise and intrigue, with his presence being described as reminiscent of surrealism rather than high-camp flamboyance. His power to shock had its roots in a strict upbringing that pushed him towards the extreme. His sister, Bronwyn, recounted the struggles he faced in a conservative environment, leading him to express his individuality without regard for social norms.
His journey towards artistic expression included childhood acts of defiance that extended into his public persona in London. An infamous anecdote shared by friend Sue Tilley illustrated Bowery’s penchant for embarrassment as performance art. During a visit to Birmingham, he provoked a security reaction by suggesting Tilley wanted to offer them sexual favours. His disruptive behaviour culminated in a moment where, out of boredom in a cinema, he stripped naked and paraded through the aisles.
In the early 1980s, Bowery’s odyssey through the changing landscape of the London club scene led him to create “Taboo,” a nightclub that became a hub for creativity and eccentricity. The club attracted a diverse clientele, spanning celebrities and the avant-garde, and nurtured a culture where bizarre art and performance could flourish. However, as the club scene evolved, darker influences began to emerge, including a growing prevalence of hard drugs, which claimed several lives, including that of Bowery’s friend Trojan.
While Bowery himself maintained a distance from narcotics, he was no stranger to the tumult of that era, reportedly living a sexually liberated lifestyle. At Taboo, he met Nicola Bateman, an emerging designer whose creativity complemented his own. Their bond flourished into a partnership where they explored radical performance art, leading to controversial acts that often blurred the lines between personal and public performance.
Bowery and Bateman’s relationship culminated in a marriage that lasted until his death from Aids-related complications in 1994. Their connection was underscored by shared creative ambitions, even amidst reported conflicts that often surfaced in their partnership.
The Tate Modern exhibition aims to highlight Bowery’s contributions to the art world and underscore the significance of his work, including his critical moments with Lucian Freud, who captured Bowery’s essence through a series of portraits. Described as a transformative figure, Bowery’s legacy lives on through the art he created and as a touchstone for those navigating identity and artistic expression.
This retrospective at Tate Modern from 27 February to 31 August promises to encapsulate the essence of Bowery—whose extraordinary life remains resonant in the fabric of contemporary culture—illustrating an iconic figure whose vibrant exploration of life and artistry continues to inspire various registers of the modern creative landscape.
Source: Noah Wire Services
Image: Tate Modern
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The draft above was created using the information available at the time the story first
emerged. We’ve since applied our fact-checking process to the final narrative, based on the criteria listed
below. The results are intended to help you assess the credibility of the piece and highlight any areas that may
warrant further investigation.
Freshness check
Score:
9
Notes:
The narrative is recent and references a forthcoming exhibition at the Tate Modern, indicating it is up-to-date. However, the subject matter is historical, focusing on Leigh Bowery’s life and legacy.
Quotes check
Score:
8
Notes:
Quotes from Mr Pearl and John Maybury are included, but their original sources or dates are not specified. The quotes appear authentic but lack direct online verification.
Source reliability
Score:
9
Notes:
The narrative originates from The Guardian, a reputable and well-established publication known for its quality journalism.
Plausability check
Score:
9
Notes:
The claims about Leigh Bowery’s life and influence are plausible and consistent with historical accounts. The narrative provides a coherent and detailed portrayal of his artistic journey.
Overall assessment
Verdict (FAIL, OPEN, PASS): PASS
Confidence (LOW, MEDIUM, HIGH): HIGH
Summary:
The narrative is well-researched, recent, and originates from a reliable source. The quotes, while unverified, are consistent with the subject’s known persona and historical context. Overall, the information presented is plausible and trustworthy.